Sitting on my surfboard in a world of deep blue water.
The fear of a monstrous wave crushing me.
The shear force of the wave is enough to drive you into the rock hard reef under you.
Surfing brings me joy.
When I first paddle and drop into a wave,
my adrenaline  pumps 10x faster than usual.
As adrenaline rushes through my body
I get a high that is totally unique to surfing. sitting on my surfboard in a deep blue world of fear and excitement.